The gr5 store Heated Bed for UM2go

Purchase it here: USA/Canada If you live outside USA/Canada you can get a kit that is just as good (but more expensive) at 3dsolex.com.

Installation/Operating Instructions

Firmware

You must use tinkerMarlin with his power budget feature as the default um2go power supply can't power both the heated bed and the nozzle without tinkerware firmware. Get the firmware here - you want one that has "2go-HBK" in the file name.
https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/

Operation

Special note - use 72C for PLA and 120C for ABS - actually read on for alternate values (equivalent to 60C and 100C on um2) because of the location of the temp sensor. Make sure to customize your PLA and ABS settings to these values for the bed. Similar to UM2, the glass temp lags the bed by about 2 minutes but that's how long it takes to heat the nozzle and prime and then start printing anyway so you don't have to worry about that. I have done hundreds of PLA prints and many dozens of ABS prints with this heated bed. From main menu click:

MATERIAL -> SETTINGS -> PLA -> OK (to load current PLA settings)

then do:

MATERIAL -> SETTINGS -> Customize -> Heated buildplate -> (change from 60C to 72C) -> Store as preset -> PLA

Now if you power cycle the machine and go into for example PREHEAT on the main screen you will see it heats the bed to 72C for PLA.

I have installed 3 of these heated beds on 3 different um2go printers and all 3 had have have different temps applied. So unfortunately you should calibrate. I used in IR thermometer ($7 at harbor freight) and when I set a UM2, UM3, S5 to 60C the IR thermometer shows exactly 60C on the heated bed glass. So the goal is to achieve the same thing on your UM2go. You want 60C for PLA and 100C for ABS. So heat to 65C and let it sit there for 5 mintues then check the actual temperature of the glass. If it is say 58C (2C low) then add another 2C and check again. Repeat until you know what temp to set the printer to such that you achieve the goal temp of 60C. Write that down and repeat for 100C (be careful not to burn yourself!).

Instead of using the values I suggest of 72C and 120C, use the values you discovered. On my 3 printers to achieve 60C one I set to 60C another 72C and the third 75C. I can find no correlation to the location of the temp sensor and the delta temp. I think it has to do with tiny changes in air spacing and location of the temp sensor as these tend to be extremely accurate sensors.

It's critical to set up the power budget as shown below. Otherwise it will trip your power supply when you start printing.

Bed Installation

Remove the glass plate (actually optional), remove the 3 leveling screws and hardware, remove the steel plate. Note which way is "left" as the nozzle on the head is on the left so I put my pad over to the left edge of the plate. Flip the plate over, peel off cover paper on the pad and attach the pad so that it doesn't cover any of the 3 screw holes and with the wires going towards the back of the printer. Re-assemble the bed.

I have a newer version that is a little bigger and looks nicer - this is a customer photo of the latest heated bed kit:

Bed Wiring

You don't need to remove the plastic covers in the back of the machine but you do need to remove the one on the bottom. After cover is removed run the cabling through the RIGHT rear cover at the bottom, if you angle the 4 wires a bit you can get them to reach the hole through the base without removing the side cover. The problem with the left cover is the opening is too close to the bed and the wires jam up between the bed and the cover.

The thinner wires go to the TEMP3 connector. You don't have to remove the board to get all the wires in. It's awkward to get the temp cable connected but it's worth it not to remove the board. Make sure connector is slid all the way in. The TEMP1 connector is for the nozzle. I bent my connector a bit which is fine. It can take it.

The thicker cables are for the heated bed. They go into the left terminal block as shown below. Push on those orange parts with a small screwdriver as shown (this first photo shows an older version with white cables) - push in quite far and then genly slip the wire in, then release the screwdriver and tug on the cable to make sure it is secure. If you put the cable in too far (very unlikely - shove it all the way in) the symptom will be that the temp always shows around 20C even when you turn on the heated bed heat. When it is working the temp should go up 1C every 2 seconds for temps below 50C.

Some further notes from a customer:
The bed that you sent looks bigger than the one in your photos, so I did not move it off to the left. I did mark the plate before sticking the bed down with a Sharpie" I also cleaned the plate with isopropyl alcohol first to make sure that it stuck

[gr5 note: I still say shift it left a bit as I think the um2go prints a bit to the left and prints much closer to the left edge of the glass than the right edge but I don't think you have to overly worry about placement - his idea of marking an "L" is smart!]

Feeding the wires through was easy as I used a surgical clip to gently grab the end of the wires By using a clip I did not need to bend the connector. It might be worth pointing out that the black connector has a groove on one side, and this side goes uppermost against the white tongue