3DSolex Heated Bed for UM2go

Purchase it here: USA/Canada or the rest of the world.

Installation/Operating Instructions

Firmware

You must use my firmware or you will trip your power supply. The head gets priority over the bed so you will notice that if bed is at goal temp and then the head comes on, the bed will cool until the head is close to its desired temp. Contact me for source code - I hope to publish on github soon. email: store _at_ gr5.org.

In most browsers you have to right click on one of these links and do 'save link as...' or similar.
Standard um2go firmware with heated bed - special power - max nozzle temp 290C
TinkerGnome um2go firmware version 16.02 with heated bed - special power - max nozzle temp 290C <-- Much Better. Recommended.

If anything strange happens with these firmwares then you need to do a FACTORY RESET on the panel of the printer. It's annoying to have to do this as it then takes 5 minutes to level the bed again such but when updating from a newer version of Marlin to an older version, many settings get randomized - things like bed size, purge position, temperatures, servo steps/mm and so on.

Operation

Special note - for version 1 of the 3dsolex heated bed (the only version right now) use 75C for PLA and 125C for ABS (equivalent to 60C and 100C on um2) because of the location of the temp sensor. Make sure to customize your PLA and ABS settings to these values for the bed. Similar to UM2, the glass temp lags the bed by about 2 minutes but that's how long it takes to heat the nozzle and prime and then start printing anyway so you don't have to worry about that. I tested it a few times for both PLA and ABS.

Bed Installation

I hope to have a video at some point. Remove the glass plate, remove the 3 leveling screws and hardware, remove the steel plate. Note which way is "left" as the nozzle on the head is on the left so I put my pad over to the left edge of the plate. Flip the plate over, peel off cover paper on the pad and attach the pad so that it doesn't cover any of the 3 screw holes and with the wires going towards the back of the printer. Re-assemble the bed.

Bed Wiring

You don't need to remove the plastic covers in the back of the machine but you do need to remove the one on the bottom. After cover is removed run the cabling through the RIGHT rear cover at the bottom, if you angle the 4 wires a bit you can get them to reach the hole through the base without removing the side cover. The problem with the left cover is the opening is too close to the bed and the wires jam up between the bed and the cover.

The thinner wires go to the TEMP3 connector. You don't have to remove the board to get all the wires in. It's awkward to get the temp cable connected but it's worth it not to remove the board. Make sure connector is slid all the way in. The TEMP1 connector is for the nozzle.

The white, thicker cables are for the heated bed. They go into the left terminal block as shown below. Push on those orange parts with a small screwdriver as shown - push in quite far and then genly slip the white wire in, then release the screwdriver and tug on the white cable to make sure it is secure. If you put the cable in too far (very unlikely - shove it all the way in) the symptom will be that the temp always shows around 20C even when you turn on the heated bed heat. When it is working the temp should go up 1C every 2 seconds for temps below 50C. The right most white 2 wires go to the nozzle heater - you can remove those now if you want. The middle one is meant for a second nozzle but that never worked out (would have been dual extrusion).

Nozzle Heater

Remove the fan shroud (4 screws), then remove the 4 long thumb screws completely and let everything hang. I usually do this with power on so there is light to see with but I like to push the head around to get a good angle so if the head isn't moving turn the printer off for 2 seconds and back on. I recommend removing the bowden at this point - it's not 100% mandatory - remove the clip, push down on the ring and pull the bowden up while pushing down on the ring. Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper plate to the lower plate (no need to remove the 3rd fan). Be careful as there is a spring holding them apart so squeeze them together while removing these 2 screws. Save all parts. Now you need a 1.5mm hex screwdriver and loosen the very long skinny screw that goes into the head - you need to remove this before removing the existing head heater.

After the long skinny screw is out, put it aside and gently pull out the heater - although it's often difficult to get the temp probe out, usually the heater comes out without too much trouble. As a last resort consider drilling in from the other side with a drill until you feel it hit the air pocket and stop and push it out with a paper clip. Sometimes heating the block to 200C makes it easier to remove the temp probe and/or the heater. But be very very careful because if either the heater or temp probe fall out you will get runaway heating until the heater melts itself (does not take very long at all!).

I left my old good 25W heater in the cable assembly. I ran the new heater on the outside of the existing bundle and clipped it into each of those clips that run along the bowden. After inserting the new heater cable in it's proper location on both ends, put everything back together - reverse order from taking it all apart.

Always have the 4 thumb screws 2 full turns loose when you re-insert the bowden so that after the clip is in you can screw those 4 screws tight and the bowden is snug against the white teflon part.